You will find checks that you need to use on your own table saw as you work, these can feed you a steady stream of tips and will give an idea how precise the tool is. One of the most basic checks would be to often apply a square into a chiseled border or crosscut end. If the square lets you know the cut isn't right, you know you must check to find out why.
Another simple check to make use of as you go, will be to draw a crosscut line with a square. In the event the blade does not remain on that line as you cut, it's probably the mitre gauge that demands attention.
There are there are only three important alignment rules that apply to any table saw; the table slots, the rip fence as well as the saw blade has to be all parallel.
When the mitre gauge is in the standard crosscut position, it should be at right angles to the blade along with the rip fence. Assuming that you have already checked for parallelism between table slots and power saw blade the zero setting of the mitre gauge could be assessed using a square.
Because the blade, which can be locked on the harbour, is the one thing of which you don't have any control, it's smart to start all alignment checks by ascertaining if the table slots are parallel to the saw blade. All other checks are made on the premise of this important association.
While these rules call for parallelism between the rip fence and also the saw blade, it's not bad practice to be a bit generous at the rear of the blade so the back teeth of the blade isn't going to scrape the wood following the front teeth have cut. This type of adjustment can reduce roughness in the cut and minimise feathering.